Questions, questions, questions

When I tell people that I am traveling to Oman, I'm typically bombarded with questions. I thought I'd use this post to answer some of them.

Q: Why did you choose Oman? (This question generally comes right after, "Where is Oman?")
A: At first, we looked at traveling to West Africa (Benin, Senegal). Since April is the rainy season, we decided that the risk of heavy rains and flooding was too high. We didn't want to get stuck in a tiny fishing village for 2 weeks, unable to travel around and see the rest of the country, so we looked at Northern Africa (Morocco, Tunisia), Eastern Africa (Egypt) and parts of the Middle East (Jordan, Petra, Turkey). We wanted a country that matched these criteria: a) no one had been there already, b) no one wanted to travel there in the future with a significant partner/family member and c) it was a country that was traditional and authentically Middle East, but safe enough for women to travel around alone. We focused our attention on some of the other countries in the Middle East (Saudi, UAE, Yemen) and, thanks to Hana's superb research skills, found Oman.

Q: What are you looking forward to the most about your trip?

A: For me, I can't wait to be in the desert. To sleep overnight in a tent on the sand. To experience the breathtaking heat, dryness and spiritual magic that I find in the desert. And I can't wait to ride a camel!

Q: Do you have to wear a veil/burqa while you are there?

A: To be respectful to the locals, we have to dress conservatively and ensure that our shoulders and knees are not bare. In the hotels, we can be more relaxed with shorts/t-shirts, but outside of the hotels, and especially in the smaller villages, we will be covering ourselves up.

Q: How long of a flight is it to get there? What is your flight path?
A: We fly from Montreal to Amsterdam to Abu Dhabi to Muscat. We leave at 6:25pm on Saturday April 4 and arrive at 8:55pm on Sunday April 5th. (This includes the +8 hours time difference between Ottawa and Oman).

Q: Is alcohol permitted in Oman?
A: From what I've read, alcohol is permitted in restaurants and hotels in Oman. Local businesses can purchase a liquor permit to purchase alcohol, but individuals cannot. Travelers arriving in Oman are allowed to bring 1 bottle of wine into the country.

If you have other questions, please send them to me or post them in the comments. I'd be happy to try and answer them for you.
~ Lala

5 more sleeps!

I'm excited! Do I really need to say anything more?

~ Lala

Packing list

For those Type A/planner folk, and you know who you are, you may be curious to know what I'm going to be stuffing into my navy blue 55L Vaude backpack for this trip!

Thanks to Hana and her world travels, I had a list to start with, and I modified it a bit for myself:

Clothes
Hat or cap
sunglasses
Bathing suit (if bringing a bikini then you may also want to bring a one piece or tankini as well if you have it)
1 pr zip off pants, 1 pr trekking pants
1 long skirt
3 t-shirts (not sleeveless)
2 long sleeved cool tops
1 sweater
1 rain jacket
1 pj
underwear/bras/socks
2 prs sandals
hiking boots

Other stuff
Airline ticket or e-ticket
Passport
Cash / travellers cheques / credit cards
International drivers license and Canadian driver's license (if required)
Medical insurance docs (if you have them)
Address book (for postcards)
Camera and accessories including recharger
Advil
Antihistamines (just in case I get allergies)
Handiwipes
Toilet paper for public bathrooms/ kleenex
Sunscreen
Lip balm with sunscreen
Bug spray
Soap / shaver / Shampoo and conditioner
Toothbrush, toothpaste and floss
Lotion
Makeup
Electricity adapter / converter
iPod and recharger w/ adapter
Small flashlight and batteries (always useful)
Playing cards, frisbee, etc.
Journal
Books / magazines (please don't bring Cosmopolitan or we'll get searched at the airport) :-)
Lonely Planet book

8 more sleeps!
~ Lala

a little teaser from Jen

Folks, please welcome Jen. Jen wanted to post a little tantalizing teaser today....

So...it's getting harder to concentrate at work with only 9 sleeps left until we leave!  

I keep finding myself daydreaming of our upcoming trip to Oman!  My thoughts are carrying me away to the ocean...I can almost hear the waves softly crashing up on the beach!  I can just image the heat from the sun hugging my body and the warm breeze blowing my hair off my face....and I feel so free....

...ok...back to work now =) 

Thanks, Jen!

~ Lala

Water in the Desert

Oman has 1700km of coastline, which means that it is full of beaches! According to some of the books I've read, Oman offers some of the cleanest, most stunning beaches in the world. Few are private, and there are many coves that are perfect for snorkeling. Diving is also quite popular and many areas of the country advertise that you can swim or kayak with dolphins. In the Muscat capital area alone, there are 4 beaches!

Shell beach
Qurum beach
Bandar Jissah
Marjan

These beaches are ripe with coral reefs, sea life, and rock formations perfect for exploring. Add sunshine and you've got one happy wannabe surfer girl! ; )

Oman, despite being a very hot, arid country, also has a number of other bodies of water in the interior. Wadis, dried up riverbeds found in the mountain valleys, are filled up after heavy rains, when the rivers start running again and the vegetation is restored. However, some wadis have year-round running water, with deep, cool pools in which it is quite safe to swim if the currents are slow.

On the whole, wadis are only accessible with a four-wheel drive vehicle, as the terrain can be extremely bumpy. Wadis are green, lush oases of palm trees, grasses, and flowering shrubs. Although they are beautiful places, they are often remote and should be visited in large groups or with a guide, because car breakdowns can happen to anyone. Visitors must also be on the alert for rain clouds, as sudden downpours can lead to flash floods, which are highly dangerous when in the gorges.

Oman is also home to hot and cold springs and aflaaj (singular falaj) which are the systems built for the distribution of water; commonly used to describe the irrigation channel system downstream of the water's source.

Some aflaaj in Oman were built more than 1,500 years ago; others were built at the beginning of the 20th century. The Omani builders tunneled into the ground to a depth of dozens of meters, in some cases, to gain access to the groundwater. I'm hoping we get a chance to see how these were built and what they look like when we tour some of the old forts.

There are also hot and cold springs in several areas of the country. The best known hot springs are in Rustaq and Nahkl, whilst the most beautiful cold spring is Ain Razat in Salalah.

I posted a couple of pictures of beaches so you can see how gorgeous they look! I can't wait!

Only 11 more sleeps!
~ Lala

Driving in Oman

I've read some interesting and funny tidbits about driving in Oman that I want to share:

• Vehicles are driven on the right side of the road, and it's compulsory to wear seat belts. 
• It's actually illegal to drive around in a dirty car in Oman. You may get stopped by the police who can fine you OMR5, although they are more likely to just tell you to wash your ride.
  
• Driving around Oman in your own rented car is quite easy. A six-lane highway connects Muscat and Nizwa and a single lane partially lit road, goes from Muscat to Sur. 
• There are still large parts of the Sur - Muscat route that has no mobile phone signal. If you break down be prepared to wait it out or hitch a ride to the next town and find a mechanic to bring back to your vehicle.
• Driving at night may be hazardous because of the risk of hitting camels that stray onto the road.
• Women should wear a headscarf when driving in these parts as it aids in deterring local males from following your vehicle and trying to make contact with you while you are driving. Yes this does happen, and there seems to be nothing discouraging them. They are friendly, but don't seem to understand that this kind of attention is unwanted.
• If you intend to drive in wadis (unsealed valley roads in river beds) a 4WD is highly desirable. You can never be sure how the road will be and if it starts raining the wadis will turn into rivers quickly.
• Oman has been experiencing severe flash flooding annually, since about 2001. The force of the water rushing down the rock hard treeless mountains can push cars and 4WDs off the road and upside down. So be careful! If you see dark clouds or rain starts, then find high dry ground, shelter and stay put. 
• If you managed to get a map of Oman makes sure you understand that maps generally reflect how Oman would like to have the roads. Some roads might be drawn as well-built streets but are not even paved. Roads not being visible on the map might just end and may even be painted till the end!

The Royal Oman Police even have an online test so that people are aware of the 4 categories of traffic signs: guiding, mandatory, preventative and warning. Test yourself here: http://www.rop.gov.om/english/trafficsignsmain.asp

Tentative Itinerary

Our Oman itinerary is something that we've agreed will be subject to flights of fancy, changing moods, money (or lack thereof), new people we meet, tantalizing adventures we decide we have to take, energy levels, the heat of the sun, etc...

...basically we are leaving this trip open to interpretation. : )

We do, however, have a couple of planners who have insisted that we have a rough idea of where we might like to go and the things that we might be interested in doing.

So, I thought I'd share it with you.

Apr 5 - Arrive in Oman, settle in.
We fly from Montreal to Amsterdam to Kuwait to Muscat. We leave Montreal at 6:25pm on April 4th and arrive in Muscat, Oman at 8:50pm on April 5th.

Apr 6 - Explore Muscat, find local guide company and get set up. 
Muscat city tour: The walled city of Muscat lies in a small bay, guarded by the spectacular twin forts of Mirani & Jalali. His Majesty Sultan Qaboos's Palace - Al Alam - is an admirable sight. 

The tour of the National and Natural History Museums is an introduction to Oman's history, fauna and flora.
Muttrah, part of the capital area, is the lively, busy trading port of the area. Its main attraction, Souq Al Dhalam - "Market of Shades" - is a labyrinth of alleyways covered by a palm roof and lit by lanterns, leading to the delights of antiques, gold, old silver, traditional handicrafts, jewellery and the rich scent of frankincense. 

Apr 7 - In the morning, kayak with the dolphins, then further explore Muscat. 

Apr 8 - Head to Nizwa, approx 2 hours from Muscat. Explore the Nizwa fort and souq (market). 
Depart for Sinaw Souq - lively and vibrant. It constitutes the main meeting place for the Bedouin. Here camels, goats and calves are auctioned and bartered. Bedouin women in traditional dress, complete with shiny metallic face-mask (burqa) trade side by side with the men. In some of the silver shops you can still find the traditional old silver Bedouin jewellery. 

Apr 9 & 10 - Head to Jebel Shams - Oman's highest mountain, and Wadi Ghul - Oman's Grand Canyon for some hiking. 

Apr 11 - Head to Sharqiya region. 

The rich waters off the coast of Oman abound in wildlife. It is home to more than 20 species of whales and dolphins. Coral reefs stretch along the coastline, where the sea provides an abundance of fish. 

Apr 12 & 13 & 14 - Overnight Bedouin camping / trekking, with some sand-boarding or sand-skiing. Perhaps see a local camel race. The isolated Wahibah Sands, traditional home of the Bedouin, has the largest area of fossilised sand dunes in the world. Covered by surface dunes, these dunes are exposed as the Sands reach the coast in the south. 

Apr 15 & 16 & 17 - More snorkelling, take a Dhow (boat) ride, chill on the beach, explore Sur. 

Apr 18 - Head back to Muscat 

Apr 19 - Leave for home - booo! 

Etiquette in Oman

I've had a lot of questions about what the culture is like in Oman, so I did a little research on social etiquette.

Oman is a traditional Muslim country, whose hospitality and warmth of nature is remarked upon by all who visit. The Omani people are friendly, and although Arabic is their main language, English is spoken frequently and is often used as the language of choice. As in most Middle East countries, religion is the center of the culture. It dictates everything: dress, hygiene, diet, everything. The approach to life is "Inshallah", which literally means "Allah willing". 

Despite their relaxed air, the Omanis are quite conservative people and respect for their privacy and, in particular, their religion, should always be observed. This generally means (for men and women alike) that no bare legs or shoulders should be visible. Women should wear loose, long garments, ensuring that their shoulders and knees are covered. Men should wear long trousers and tops with sleeves. (I'll describe the clothing in greater detail in another post.) Women should cover their heads before entering a mosque and all should remove shoes.

There are also specific social and religious rules that govern contact between the sexes. Although men and women may interact in public, their contact should always be chaperoned or in the open. Even educated elite women often find it necessary to be chaperoned by a male relative at public events, parties, or receptions. Public hand-holding etc and kissing are frowned upon and it is respectful to observe this taboo.

Omanis tend to stand close to one another as Arabs do, and it is common for friends and relatives of the same sex to hold hands. Two or more men or women entering a doorway at the same time always try to persuade the others to enter first, although a man always invites a woman to enter first.

A very important part of Omani culture is hospitality. If invited into an Omani house, a visitor is likely to be greeted with a bowl of dates, kahwa (coffee withcardamom - standard Arabic قهوة) and fruit.  The coffee is served fairly weak in a small cup, which should be shaken after three servings to show that you have finished. The dates are in lieu of sugar. Halwa and other sweets are often given at celebrations such as Eids.

Alcohol is available only in select restaurants and large hotels and is usually very expensive. Only tourists are allowed to drink alcohol. Drinking is illegal for all Omani citizens. Drinking alcohol in public is strictly prohibited.

Staring is quite common in Oman; children, men and women are likely to stare at you simply for being a foreigner, especially if you travel off-season and in out-of-the-way places. This is not meant as an insult, it rather shows an interest, and a friendly smile will leave the kids giggling and showing off, and the adults happily trying out their few English phrases.

~ Lala 

the cast of characters

I've talked a little about the country and the food of Oman, but let me take a few moments to introduce you to the cast of characters that are traveling on this trip. I've known Hana for 9 years now. We've had many adventures together through work, adventure racing and search & rescue, but the one adventure we have yet to experience is to travel together. I've known Colleen for a few years, mostly through Hana's circle of friends and via Hana's worldwide travel adventures with her. I met Jenn just last year; we've had a couple of fun weekend activities of camping and skiing/boarding at Tremblant.

It should be a great dynamic - 4 women with varied backgrounds, life experiences, and outlooks. 4 women who are excited about traveling to such an exotic and unfamiliar destination; a place and a culture that simply lends itself to many opportunities for us to grow, share, stretch our boundaries, and laugh.

I asked each of the travelers to write up a little blurb about themselves, so that you all can get to know us a bit better.

Hana

who are you? Hana. Alpha female core with a zen wrapper.

why do you want to go to Oman? For the swarma. I am on a lifelong pursuit of the best ever chicken swarma sandwich. I'm hoping Oman doesn't disappoint.

what do you hope to get out of the experience? A farmer's tan. Some good stories. A cool piece of art for my home. Time with my fave girlfriends.

and something that we perhaps should know about you before we leave? I hog the blankets but not the bed. I overpay for everything. I think that every country has good beer but only a few have good wine. I love to go to peoples' home while traveling so I've seen how taxi drivers live the world over.

Colleen
who are you? COLLEEN. Aka crazy colleen, moker (Ed. note: apparently there is a story in there....)

why do you want to go to Oman? For a new adventure, new food (and Hana, I now don't mind my food touching), new drinks, new culture

what do you hope to get out of the experience? Time with girlfriends from home, some good 'ol Canadian TLC (I so miss it loads) and getting a new FRIDGE MAGNET (Ed. note: apparently there is fridge magnet criteria that we need to be aware of), mingling with some locals (safe ones, that is), seeing the best of Oman.

and something that we perhaps should know about you before we leave? My travel idiosyncrasies, I guess, are that I flush the toilet at night, I do have a small bladder so have to stop and pee a lot, I also love a bargain!

Jenn

who are you? Jennifer, aka Jenn. I'm a planner but hoping this trip will help me break the habit and become more of a free spirit ;-)

why do you want to go to Oman? To experience a different part of the world, meet interesting people, taste new food and drinks and see amazing sites!

what do you hope to get out of the experience? To learn something new about myself and have an amazing adventure with 3 awesome women. See something that takes my breath away. Ride a camel, snorkel, hike and camp in the desert, ooh and be fed olives by an Arabian Prince :)

and something that we perhaps should know about you before we leave? Haha..many of the same..small bladder and a terrible sense of direction, I get lost in a parking lot ;) And most importantly ...I get cranky when I'm hungry ;-)

Lisa
who are you? Lisa, aka lala, sometimes known as dharma. I'm a wannabe hippie who loves the idea of packing up a backpack (albeit a 55L backpack) and hitting the road to see where it leads me.

why do you want to go to Oman? I've never been to the Middle East. I want to change my perceptions about a part of the world that I've only ever read about. I want to live it. And in my own naive way, I want to make a friend or two along the way. You never know!

what do you hope to get out of the experience? On some secret level, I hope the four of us get invited to visit the Sultan; that we get a chance to take a tour of his castle, his harem, and dine with him over a midday lunch on huge golden cushions. Even, if that doesn't happen, I'd like to have some EPIC adventures with 3 amazing women - opportunities to laugh and explore - I'd like to sleep out in the desert, ride a camel (or attempt to ride one), meet a Bedouin, hike in the mountains, shop at souq, swim in the Arabian Ocean, and go sand boarding on the sand dunes, and so on...

something you should know about me before we leave? I have a terrible sense of direction. I get turned around easily and often... but it often leads me on the most amazing adventures.

Sounds like quite the cast! This adventure is ripe for the making.
Only 3.5 more weeks to go!
~ Lala

Food

I love food and one of the joys of traveling to an new destination is to unfurl the often complex traditions and culture around food. 

Food is such an integral part of community and culture, and getting a little peek into the tapestry of how people eat and what they eat can reveal a lot about the people of a country. 

From what I've read, Omani cuisine revolves around rice. The morning meal is typically not large, often consisting of bread or leftovers from the day before, and tea. 

The main meal of the day is in early to mid-afternoon and I'm guessing it's followed by a long snooze! ; ) It is generally a large dish of rice with a thin tomato-based sauce and meat or fish. Pork does not exist in the Omani diet as it is prohibited by Islam. Some dishes that I found described are: 
Marak - vegetable curry
Kebabs - barbecued, grilled and curried meat, chicken and fish dishes. 
Mashuai - a meal comprising whole spit-roasted king fish served with lemon rice. 
Maqbous - a rice dish, tinged yellow with saffron and cooked over a spicy red or white meat. 

The evening meal is generally very light, sometimes consisting only of fruit or bread and tea. 

Traditional Omani cuisine is prepared with use of various marinades, spices, herbs, onion, garlic and lime. Everyday Omani cuisine includes a wide variety of soups prepared from vegetable, lentil, lamb and chicken. Salads are also popular and are usually based around fresh vegetables, smoked eggplant, tuna fish, dried fish or watercress. 

Breads rage from the plain to those flavored with dates, sesame, thyme and garlic. The Rukhal bread is a thin, round bread originally baked over a fire made from palm leaves. It is eaten at any meal, typically served with Omani honey for breakfast or crumbled over curry for dinner. 

Dates, fresh or dried, are important to the diet and to the ritual of hospitality. Equally critical is helwa, a sweet confection based on clarified butter, honey, and spices. Both are served to guests with strong, bitter, and often cardamom-scented coffee. 

I'm drooling from the thought of enjoying garlic, onion, lemon, olive oil, good bread, dates, fruit, vegetable curry, coffee, and honey. My vegetarian belly should be very happy.  

~ Lala

Ahlan wa salan! (Welcome!)

The four Muscat-eers* (Hana, Colleen, Jenn and I) are heading to Oman on April 4th to spend a couple weeks exploring a country that is nestled deep in the heartland of the Middle East.

Bordered by the United Arab Emirates (on the Arabian Ocean side), Yemen and Saudi Arabia (on the Red Sea side), Oman is a small country with a rich cultural and geographical diversity. Picture mountain villages clutched against canyon walls, clusters of dates weighing heavy in trees, a ribbon of sand blowing across the dunes, a lone camel padding across the dusty interior... these are just some of the experiences of the senses I am hoping to have!

Here are a few facts of the country that you might be interested to know:

• Population: 3.2 million, based on a 2007 census
• Size: 119, 500 square miles (about the size of the state of Nevada)
  
• Capital city: Muscat (population 620,000)
• Government: Sultanate
• Head of State: Sultan Qaboos bin Sa’id (since 1970)

Miscellaneous: Good roads link nearly every town in the country, every region has modern health care facilities, and all Omani citizens are given free primary and secondary education. Oman has gained an international reputation for being a peaceful, settled nation, loyal to Arab neighbours whilst maintaining close, friendly ties with Western countries, particularly the UK.

How's that for a teaser for now. Stay tuned for more tidbits as I count down the days!
~ Lala

* I love puns, and I couldn't resist that groaner. ; )